|
High end system install guide - your step by step
source for true high fidelity sound! Part 1 and 2
Vince Cuffaro, civicracer@core.com
Well, after numerous emails on how to build a nice system and what
components to use, I figured I'd do a weekly article on the
current high end install of mine.
I am by no means an expert but I do have some knowledge on how to put a high end, high SQ and SPL, low power system together. This, however,
will be my first attempt at nearly 1000 watts rms! I am used to defying
logic with 200 watt, killer systems and single 12 inch subs!
The look:
I wanted clean. I wanted, minimal. I wanted low...I DIDN'T want this
overbearing system, with 4 subs and crap everywhere! I wanted clean
and beautiful! I commissioned my father in law to help. He's a wood
worker by hobby and can make ANYTHING out of wood! He's good! So I
told him what was floating in my mind for an idea and he helps me put it in
place he's been great so far as well! Every time he turns
around I'm changing something!
The final install will be very simple and clean. I only will see the
amp tops, the single 12 cone, the digital cap and the distribution
blocks oh, and the audio control components but we'll get into those
later.
After deciding on clean, I had to figure out how to make it clean, and what I meant by clean. I decided I wanted everything flat.
Every amp and sub will all be on the same level! This was hard to do as
everything is different sizes. But is about done! The goal was to build the box
first then build false floors around that box and then a cover piece to top it all off. I'll get more into this later and have some photos
for you guys. The final cover piece/look was important as well. Carpet? Vinyl?
The options are endless! I first decided on
vinyl. It would help hide
any imperfections and look and match factory. Well, then I started
thinking how cool would it be to have the top piece look like glass!
shiny like a new penny. So I decided to Paint the top cover black
clear coat it, and buff it to a high gloss, making it look like a black
piece of glass! I had thought of doing polished aluminum for a minute or two, but my father in law didn't like the idea...."too hard to work
with" he said! ;) So paint it was! This thing will look so cool!
all that shiny black....whoa!
The material:
I had thought of using fiberglass at one point, but wanted it simple
and easy. Wood, or MDF is the easiest stuff to work with, and with
a father in law like mine to do anything with it.....ahhhh...heaven!
The entire setup will use 1/2 inch MDF, with a masonite top cover.
I should have used 3/4 inch at least for the box...but, I don't have
to! I know how to use lesser material and set it up to work well.
and of course, to top it all, I used a ton of BQuiet sound deadener!
Check last months Ezine for sub box building basics. OH! forgot to mention about the processor install! I will be mounting
them on two vertical panels in either corner of the hatch and the Honda I am working with is a 1991 Civic Si Hatchback.
Equipment:
The next and most important part of a system is equipment and the
right kind! I was fortunate enough to get a DEI system for demo
purposes so it was free! I wouldn't have actually bought DEI, but I
might be surprised at the results. I will try my hardest to design the
system so that the DEI components work to there best!
I received two amps. One DEI 200...it's a 35x4 into 4 ohm amp and one 600D class D mono block sub amp. this amp will be pushing around 700
watts into the DEI 12 inch competition subwoofer. And the 200 will be powering a set of DEI Studio 3 way components set. 6.5, 4 and tweeter,
complete with crossovers.
The rest of the system will include a 1 farad DEI digital cap, Audio-
control Epicenter, ESPII and EQL 13 band EQ. The source unit is a
Rockford Fosgate 8140. This is the highest spec head unit ever
produced. It might be ugly, but it should run things quite nicely. It has 8.5 volts out and a wide array of video and input connections.
The remote even has the ability to run your neon's and amp racks!
Even though the install will be based on this setup, I will eventually
swap the amps for Autotek equipment, unless I truly find the DEI a
diamond in the rough! I will be doing a big speaker comparo. Anyway, no
matter how the DEI loudspeakers sound and may the best speakers stay!
Wiring is another overlooked, but IMPORTANT part of any system. I would
rather OVERDO wiring than not have enough.
My rule is:
Use 4 gauge! If your running over 200 watts, I would run
4 gauge wire at least from the battery to the distribution block. And
DON'T just electrical tape wires together! Get a block, run the 4 gauge
and then run 8 gauge to your amp(s).
For example, my new system is wired like this: Blade fuse at battery
w/80 amp fuse. 4 gauge power to distr. block in rear hatch. I use two
distr. blocks. The first has two 8 and 2 10 gauge out, then jumps a 4
gauge to another block with 4 4 gauge out. I then run a 4 gauge power to the cap and one to the 600D mono block sub amp. the 8
gauge runs to the DEI 200 amp and the other 12 gauge run to the components. I then
ground the same way, into a ditr. block, then to the car body. Using 4
and 8 gauge from the amps and cap.
Speakers are wired with 8 gauge for the sub! and 12 gauge for the
speakers. The amp and sub will have MORE than enough power!
Next month - The finished
product...and tons of photos!
--
Vince Cuffaro
Performance Refinishing/Racing, Inc.
"Home of the all motor 13 second Civic SiR!"
Visit us at:
members.fortunecity.com/performancerefinishing/perfmain.html
|